Preparing to Fit Your Water Butt
Fitting a water butt is a rewarding project that allows you to harvest rainwater for your garden, reducing reliance on mains water, especially during hosepipe bans. Before you begin, a little preparation ensures the job is done correctly and safely. The most crucial step is selecting the right location and preparing a sturdy foundation.
Consider where your downpipes are located and how much space you have. A level, firm surface is paramount. Simply placing a large, full water butt on soft soil or uneven ground can lead to instability and potential collapse. A common mistake is overlooking the weight a full water butt holds – several hundred litres can weigh a significant amount.
You will need a few items to hand. Ensure you have the correct diverter kit for your downpipe type (most are circular but come with adaptors) and a secure method of connecting the butt to the downpipe. If your water butt doesn't come with a stand, you will need to construct or purchase one to elevate the butt, allowing access to the tap and ensuring sufficient water pressure. Check the dimensions of your chosen water butt and its required space, including any overflow pipe needs.
Gather your tools: a spirit level, a shovel (if levelling ground), potentially a small level for the base, a drill (if fitting a tap or securing anything), and any necessary plumbing tools or sealant for the diverter kit. Having everything ready before you start will make the fitting process considerably smoother.
A stable, level base is the single most important factor for a safely fitted water butt.
Choosing the Ideal Location and Base
The ideal spot for your water butt is directly beneath a suitable downpipe from your roof. This maximises the amount of rainwater you can collect. However, proximity to your garden areas needing watering is also a consideration, although a hosepipe or watering can will bridge most distances.
For the base, several options exist. A purpose-made water butt stand is designed for stability and height, often made from recycled plastic or metal. Alternatively, you can build a robust platform using sturdy timber or concrete paving slabs laid on a compacted base of gravel or sand. The aim is to create a surface that is perfectly level and can bear the considerable weight of a full water butt without sinking or shifting.
If you are using paving slabs, dig down slightly, lay a bed of gravel for drainage, compact it, and then lay your slabs. Use a spirit level to ensure each slab is perfectly flat and level with its neighbours. If placing directly on soil, you may need to compact it thoroughly and add a layer of sand or fine gravel to create a firm, level bed. Never underestimate the weight of water – a 200-litre butt can weigh over 200kg when full.
Prepare your base slightly larger than the footprint of the water butt or its stand to provide extra stability and guard against accidental kicks.
Connecting the Water Butt to Your Downpipe
With your base prepared and level, it's time to position the water butt and connect it to the downpipe. If you have a stand, place it firmly on the prepared base. Then, carefully manoeuvre the water butt onto the stand. Ensure it sits centrally and securely.
The connection to the downpipe is usually made using a diverter kit. These kits typically involve cutting a section out of your downpipe and inserting the diverter, which has an outlet hose that connects to a pre-drilled hole on the side or back of your water butt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific diverter kit carefully.
Most diverter kits come with a template for cutting the downpipe. Use a hacksaw or a junior saw to make a clean cut. Ensure the cut edge is smooth. Insert the diverter into the gap, securing it according to the instructions. Some may require sealant for a watertight fit, though many modern designs rely on rubber seals.
Once the diverter is in place, connect the flexible hose from the diverter to the inlet on the water butt. This connection should be snug and, if required by the kit, sealed to prevent leaks. When it rains, water will flow down the downpipe, through the diverter, and into your water butt. Most diverters have a feature to stop filling once the butt is full, redirecting excess water back down the downpipe, which is an important overflow mechanism.
Verify the diverter hose is securely attached and that the water butt is stable on its base before the first rainfall.
Fitting the Water Butt Tap
Most water butts come with a pre-drilled hole and a fitting for a tap. This is usually located near the bottom of the butt, allowing you to easily access the collected water. If your butt doesn't have a pre-drilled hole, you will need to drill one yourself using an appropriate-sized drill bit, ensuring it’s positioned high enough to get a watering can underneath but low enough to drain most of the water.
The tap fitting typically consists of a plastic or metal bulkhead fitting and a tap. The bulkhead fitting often has a rubber seal on the inside to create a watertight seal against the plastic of the water butt. Push the threaded end of the bulkhead fitting through the hole from the inside or outside (depending on the design), ensuring the seal is correctly positioned.
On the outside, screw the tap onto the threaded end of the bulkhead fitting. Tighten it firmly, but avoid overtightening, which could crack the plastic of the water butt. For extra security or peace of mind, a small amount of plumber's tape or silicone sealant can be applied to the threads of the bulkhead fitting before screwing it into place. Ensure the tap is turned off during installation.
If you plan to use a hosepipe, look for water butts that have a standard threaded outlet fitting designed for hosepipe connectors. This offers greater flexibility for watering larger areas or connecting to a garden hose reel. If your water butt tap is not compatible with a hosepipe directly, you may need to purchase an adapter. Alternatives to a standard tap include automatic overflow systems that direct excess water to a garden hose or even a drip irrigation system, though these are more complex setups.
When installing the tap, ensure it is angled slightly downwards to facilitate easier drainage and prevent water pooling around the fitting.
Verification and Initial Use
Once everything is connected, it’s time for a quick check and to prepare for the first use. The most important verification is ensuring all connections are secure and that there are no immediate leaks. Gently rock the water butt to check its stability on the base and stand.
If you have a hosepipe ban in effect, the primary purpose is immediate water conservation. Open the water butt tap and let a small amount of water run through it to flush out any dust or debris from the installation process. Check around the tap fitting and any other connection points for drips. If leaks are present, you may need to tighten connections or reapply sealant.
The water butt is now ready to collect rain. On the next rainy day, observe the diverter connection. Water should flow down the downpipe and enter the butt. If the butt fills up, the overflow mechanism should direct excess water back down the downpipe or via its dedicated overflow outlet, preventing water from pooling around the base.
Regularly check your water butt and its connections, especially after the first few heavy downpours, to ensure ongoing stability and prevent leaks.
Considering Alternatives and Upgrades
While a standard water butt connected to a downpipe is the most common setup, several alternatives and upgrades can enhance your rainwater harvesting. If you don't have suitable downpipes or prefer a different aesthetic, standalone water butts or decorative rain barrels are available, which can be filled manually or via a separate inlet pipe connected to a water source.
For larger gardens or higher water demand, linking multiple water butts together is a popular option. This is usually achieved by drilling a hole in the side of one butt near the base and connecting it to another butt using a linking kit. This creates a larger total capacity and ensures water can be drawn from any connected butt.
If you find yourself frequently emptying large water butts for watering, consider upgrading the tap to a larger bore valve for a faster flow, or attaching a pump. For more advanced garden irrigation, the collected water can be filtered and used with a low-pressure lawn sprinkler or a drip irrigation system, though this often requires more complex filtration and pumping solutions than a simple water butt provides.
The efficiency of your system can also be improved with accessories like leaf guards for the downpipe, which prevent debris from entering the butt and potentially blocking the tap or diverter. A water butt stand significantly improves access and pressure, making it more practical than ground-level placement. If space is extremely limited, slimline water butts offer a more compact solution.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Despite careful installation, a few issues can arise with water butt systems. Leaks are the most frequent problem, often originating from the tap fitting, the diverter connection, or cracks in the butt itself. Re-tightening fittings, ensuring rubber seals are correctly seated, and using appropriate sealants can resolve most minor leaks.
Stability is another concern. If the water butt appears wobbly, the base may not be firm or level enough. Remove the water, re-level the base, and ensure it is compacted. If using a stand, check that it is also secure on the base.
Blockages can occur in the downpipe, the diverter, or the inlet to the water butt, particularly if leaf guards are not used or are ineffective. Regularly inspect these points and clear any debris. A blocked diverter means water won't enter the butt, while a blocked overflow can cause water to spill around the base during heavy rain.
Algae can sometimes grow inside water butts, turning the water green and potentially affecting its suitability for sensitive plants. This is more common in clear or translucent butts exposed to direct sunlight. Opaque water butts and keeping the lid securely fastened are the best preventative measures. If algae is present, empty and clean the butt thoroughly. Using a water butt cover can also help mitigate this.
Always ensure the overflow is functioning correctly to prevent water damage to your property or garden.